Trash and Vaudeville, The Shop That Punk Built - An excellent history of the storied punk establishment. Including this great line from Jimmy Webb manager and buyer: “Lou Reed’s 1972 ode to hustlers, transsexuals and transsexual hustlers would alter Mr. Webb’s life. ‘A friend asked, ‘Do you know what it means?’ ’ he recalled. ‘I did without knowing it. I knew I was a boy that had to leave to go somewhere.’”
Pam Grier’s Afro: Let’s Bring It Back - “How a date with Blaxsploitation queen Pam Grier kindled my nostalgia for the regal, natural, glamorous hairdo. She was the baddest one-chick hit squad to ever hit town. The freak with the ’fro. I’m talkin’ ’bout Miss Sweet Brown Sugar With a Touch of Spice. A sistah with drive who don’t take no jive. I am talking about the Vanessa-muthafuckin’-Redgrave of Blaxsploitation movies. Have no fear, Pam Grier is here.”
Probably my favorite photo of Margaret Thatcher, featured here getting ambushed by Katherine Hamnett at a 1984 Downing Street reception for fashion designers. Hamnet smuggled one of her infamous slogan shirts into the event, putting it on once inside, the shirt read ‘58% don’t want Pershing’ in reference to the Prime Minister’s decision to allow U.S. Pershing Missiles to be stationed in Britain despite the majority of the British public being opposed. When she saw the shirt,Thatcher uttered a shriek of horror.
Ormond Gigli, Girl in Light: oversized chromogenic print, mounted, signed, titled, dated, and editioned ‘a/p 1/3’ in ink on the mount and on the reverse, framed, 1967.
Above, a scene from the Jil Sander collection during Milan fashion week 2013. Below, Kraftwerk, Die Mensch-Maschine (1978).
Scenes from the London fashion week photo diary of Roberta Ridolfi for E.Tautz.
Scenes from the London fashion week photo diary of Roberta Ridolfi for E.Tautz.
London Menswear A/W 2013 “Sibling”- Musicians Richard Hell and transsexual Jayne/Wayne Country were the given inspirations… They [Sibling] promised us ‘Fuck Off knitting’. If that was a reference to sheer size then they delivered. [The Trio] pride themselves on witty, so-bad-it’s-good knitwear, hence the penchant for clashing kitsch motifs like leopard print and polka-dot together on one jumper – they call it the ‘perverse Fair Isle’.
PRADA: Real Fantasies Fall/Winter 2012 - Rotterdam-based AMO this film and scenography for Milan-based fashion house Prada’s autumn/winter 2012 collection. Models are depicted amongst a backdrop of a dystopian society of industry, machines and geometric landscapes. Surreal lo-fi scenery of starry skies, shooting comets and other astral projections are juxtaposed between spinning planets, earths and neoclassical train stations and other baroque-like interiors
D.TT.K MAN Spring 2013
Guy Bourdin (1/10) - Image obsessed Bourdin (shooting movie 16mm and super 8. polaroid. 35mm stills and medium format on jobs), Dayle Haddon and Sayuko filmed by Guy Bourdin on a Vogue shooting in 1974 in Normandy, France. See 2/10, 3/10, 4/10, 5/10 (sign in), 6/10, 7/10, 8/10, 9/10, 10/10. (Four and Six seem to have gone missing).
“Bourdin was one of the best known photographers of fashion and advertising of the second half of the 20th century. He shared Helmut Newton’s taste for controversy and stylization, but Bourdin’s formal daring and the narrative power of his images exceeded the bounds of conventional advertising photography. Shattering expectations and questioning boundaries, he set the stage for a new kind of fashion photography. Bourdin worked for Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar, and shot ad campaigns for Chanel, Issey Miyake, Emanuel Ungaro, Gianni Versace, Loewe, Pentax and Bloomingdale’s” See also: Deathly Stills: The Dark Dark World of Guy Bourdin.